📸 Nikkor 70–210mm f/4–5.6 AF-D: A Sleeper Telephoto Worth Knowing

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In a world obsessed with fast primes and pro-grade zooms, the Nikkor 70–210mm f/4–5.6 AF-D is often overlooked. Released in the late 1980s and refined through the 1990s, it’s a lens that quietly delivers—especially for street, travel, and candid work where discretion and versatility matter.

🔍 Optical Performance

  • Sharpness: Respectable across the range, especially in the centre. It holds up well even on higher-resolution sensors, though it won’t match modern primes or pro zooms.
  • Contrast & Colour: Slightly cool rendering; contrast is decent but not punchy.
  • Bokeh: Fair—better at 135mm than at 210mm.
  • Distortion: Minimal at 70mm, increasing pincushion distortion toward 210mm.

⚙️ Build & Handling

  • Construction: Solid for its class—metal mount, decent heft (~590g), and a push-pull zoom design. Not weather-sealed, and it does pump air when zooming.
  • Autofocus: Fast for its era, especially the AF-D version with improved gearing. Noisy and not ideal for video, but snappy enough for street and candid work.
  • Size: Compact for a telephoto zoom, making it a good fit for travel or discreet shooting.

💰 Value & Use Cases

  • Price: Often found used for £80–£150, (I picked up my perfect copy for 50$ US here in PP) making it one of the best-value Nikon telephoto zooms available.
  • Best For:
    • Street photography with reach
    • Travel and urban detail work
    • Candid portraits at a distance
    • Vintage DSLR setups or film bodies

⚠️ Limitations

  • Low-light performance: With a variable aperture of f/4–5.6, it’s not ideal for dim conditions.
  • No VR (Vibration Reduction): You’ll need steady hands or fast shutter speeds.
  • Push-pull zoom: Some find it less precise than modern ring zooms.

✅ Final Assessment

The Nikkor 70–210mm f/4–5.6 AF-D is not flashy, but it’s reliable. It rewards photographers who value presence, anticipation, and discretion over technical perfection. For street work, especially in bright conditions, it’s a sleeper lens that punches above its weight.

If your style is unpolished but intentional, this lens fits right in.

📸 Program Mode and the Myth of Purism: A Street Photographer’s Perspective

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There’s a myth in photography: that “real” photographers must shoot in full manual mode, especially if they own expensive gear. The implication is that Program Mode is a shortcut, a crutch, or even a betrayal of the craft.

But here’s the truth: Program Mode is not a weakness. It’s a strategy.

I. The Myth of Manual Purism

Manual mode is often treated as a badge of honour. It suggests mastery, control, and technical discipline. But photography is not a competition in purity—it is a practice of seeing.

Street photography, especially in Phnom Penh’s fast‑moving rhythm, demands presence more than technical gymnastics. If fiddling with dials makes you miss the moment, then the pursuit of “purism” has already failed.

II. Program Mode as a Discipline

Program Mode doesn’t mean surrendering creativity. It means letting the camera handle exposure basics while you focus on what matters most: composition, timing, and anticipation.

When monks step into morning light or a vendor gestures mid‑conversation, you don’t have time to calculate shutter speed and aperture. Program Mode frees you to be present, to anticipate, and to react.

III. Control Is Still Yours

Modern DSLRs are not mindless machines. Program Mode allows overrides:

  • Exposure compensation to adjust brightness.
  • Program shift to balance aperture and shutter.
  • Focus lock to control depth and subject.

You’re not giving up control—you’re choosing where to invest your attention. The camera becomes a collaborator, not a dictator.

IV. Anticipation Over Perfection

Street photography is about anticipation—the ability to sense a moment before it happens. Burst shooting captures micro‑variations, but anticipation is the discipline that guides it.

Program Mode supports this discipline. It keeps you ready, so when the decisive moment arrives, you’re not buried in settings—you’re alive to the rhythm of the street.

V. Philosophy of Use

An expensive DSLR is a tool. Its value lies not in how “manual” you shoot, but in how authentically you capture.

If Program Mode helps you stay present in Phnom Penh’s streets—catching candid gestures, fleeting light, and authentic human connection—then it is serving your vision.

Closing Call: The Decisive Moment Doesn’t Care

The decisive moment doesn’t care what mode you used. It cares that you were there, attentive, and ready.

Program Mode is acceptable because photography is not about proving technical purity—it’s about making images that resonate.

📸 Street Photography in Phnom Penh: Authentic, Candid Moments

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I don’t chase perfection. I don’t polish the streets into postcards. I take pictures of what I see—fleeting gestures, overlooked details, unremarkable corners. To some, these images may feel uninteresting. But to me, they are the essence of street photography: authentic, candid, and true.

I. PRESENCE IS HONESTY

Street photography begins with presence. It’s about standing in the chaos of Phnom Penh—motorbikes weaving, vendors calling, monks moving through morning light—and noticing the small things.

A hand resting on a tuk‑tuk. A shadow slicing across a wall. A child’s laughter echoing in the alley. These moments aren’t staged. They aren’t curated. They are real.

II. MEMORY IS FRAGILE

Phnom Penh is changing fast. Markets modernise, facades crumble, new towers rise. What feels ordinary today may be gone tomorrow.

Photography preserves the fragile. A candid frame becomes a fragment of memory, a retro imprint of a city in transition. Not all images are pretty, but all are valuable.

III. CONNECTION IS HUMAN

The power of candid moments lies in connection. A stranger’s direct gaze. A fleeting smile. The quiet acknowledgment of someone who lets me borrow a second of their life.

Grain, blur, imperfection—these are not flaws. They are the marks of authenticity, the texture of human presence.

IV. IDENTITY IS UNPOLISHED

My way of working is not about producing art that pleases everyone. It is about practicing a way of seeing. It is about being present in Phnom Penh’s streets, attentive to the ordinary, open to the unremarkable.

This is my discipline: to take pictures of what I see, without gloss, without apology.

Closing Call: Light as a Signature

Street photography is special not because it is beautiful, but because it is true. Each frame is a mark, a monogram of the city’s soul—drawn not with ink, but with light.

📸 The Exposure Triangle

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Mastering the balance of light in photography

The Exposure Triangle is the foundation of photographic technique. It describes the relationship between three key settings—aperture, shutter speed, and ISO—that together determine how bright or dark your image will be. Understanding how these elements interact is essential for achieving correct exposure and creative control.

🔺 The Three Sides of the Triangle

  1. Aperture (f-stop)
    • Controls how much light enters through the lens.
    • Wide apertures (e.g., f/1.8) let in more light and create shallow depth of field (blurry backgrounds).
    • Narrow apertures (e.g., f/16) let in less light but increase depth of field (more of the scene in focus).
  2. Shutter Speed
    • Determines how long the sensor is exposed to light.
    • Fast speeds (e.g., 1/1000s) freeze motion.
    • Slow speeds (e.g., 1/30s or longer) allow motion blur or creative long exposures.
  3. ISO
    • Adjusts the sensor’s sensitivity to light.
    • Low ISO (100–200) produces clean, noise-free images.
    • High ISO (1600+) helps in low light but introduces grain/noise.

⚖️ How They Work Together

  • Changing one setting affects the others. For example:
    • If you open the aperture wider, you may need a faster shutter speed or lower ISO to avoid overexposure.
    • If you increase ISO in low light, you can use a faster shutter speed but risk more noise.
  • The triangle is about balance: each side compensates for the others to achieve the desired exposure.

🧠 Practical Tips

  • Use aperture priority mode when depth of field is your main concern (portraits, landscapes).
  • Use shutter priority mode when motion control is key (sports, long exposures).
  • Use manual mode to take full creative control and learn how the triangle works in practice.
  • Check your histogram to ensure highlights and shadows aren’t clipped.

🎨 Creative Control

Correct exposure isn’t always about technical perfection. Sometimes photographers intentionally underexpose for mood or overexpose for a dreamy effect. Mastering the triangle gives you the freedom to bend the rules deliberately.

📝 Final Thought

The Exposure Triangle is more than a technical concept—it’s a creative toolkit. By understanding how aperture, shutter speed, and ISO interact, you gain the ability to shape not just the brightness of your image, but its mood, sharpness, and emotional impact.

📸 Understanding Correct Exposure in Photography

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Why it matters and how to achieve it

Exposure refers to the amount of light that reaches your camera’s sensor. Too much light, and your photo is overexposed—washed out with lost highlight detail. Too little, and it’s underexposed—dark, noisy, and lacking shadow detail. Correct exposure is about balance: capturing detail in both highlights and shadows while preserving the atmosphere of the scene.

🔺 The Exposure Triangle

  1. Aperture (f-stop)
    • Controls how much light enters through the lens.
    • Wide apertures (f/1.4–f/2.8) let in more light and create shallow depth of field.
    • Narrow apertures (f/8–f/16) reduce light but increase depth of field, keeping more of the scene sharp.
  2. Shutter Speed
    • Determines how long the sensor is exposed to light.
    • Fast speeds (1/1000s) freeze motion.
    • Slow speeds (1/30s or longer) allow motion blur or creative long exposures.
  3. ISO
    • Adjusts sensor sensitivity to light.
    • Low ISO (100–200) produces clean images with minimal noise.
    • High ISO (1600+) helps in low light but introduces grain.

Together, these three settings form the exposure triangle, and adjusting one requires compensating with another to maintain balance.

🧠 Methods for Achieving Correct Exposure

  • Metering Modes: Cameras offer matrix, center-weighted, and spot metering to measure light differently. Choosing the right mode helps avoid over/underexposure in tricky lighting.
  • Histogram Check: Reviewing the histogram ensures highlights and shadows aren’t clipped. A balanced histogram indicates proper exposure.
  • Exposure Compensation: Adjusting +/– EV lets you fine-tune brightness without changing aperture or shutter speed.
  • Bracketing: Shooting multiple exposures (under, correct, over) ensures you capture the best version, especially in high-contrast scenes.
  • Manual Mode Practice: Learning to balance aperture, shutter, and ISO manually builds confidence and creative control.

🎨 Creative Considerations

Correct exposure isn’t always about technical perfection. Sometimes, intentional underexposure adds mood, or overexposure creates a dreamy effect. The key is knowing the rules well enough to break them deliberately.

📝 Final Thought

Exposure is the heartbeat of photography. By mastering aperture, shutter speed, and ISO—and using tools like histograms and metering—you gain control over both technical accuracy and creative expression. Correct exposure ensures your images are not just visible, but powerful.

🧭 Legacy Glass That Still Delivers: Nikon AF Nikkor 300mm f/4 ED

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The Nikon AF Nikkor 300mm f/4 ED (Non-D) may be decades old, but it remains a sharp, reliable telephoto lens for budget-conscious photographers who value reach, contrast, and classic build quality. It’s a sleeper gem for wildlife, sports, and outdoor portraiture—especially when paired with a tripod or monopod.

Released in the late 1980s, the Nikon AF Nikkor 300mm f/4 ED was built for professionals who needed reach and speed without the bulk of the f/2.8 version. Though it lacks modern features like VR (Vibration Reduction) and silent wave motor autofocus, it continues to impress with its optical clarity, rugged construction, and affordability on the used market.

🔍 Optical Performance

  • Sharpness: This lens is surprisingly sharp wide open, with excellent center resolution and decent edge performance. Stopping down to f/5.6 improves corner sharpness, making it suitable for high-resolution bodies like the D800.
  • Color and contrast: Thanks to its ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass elements, the lens delivers vibrant color and strong contrast, even in backlit conditions.
  • Chromatic aberration: Some longitudinal CA is visible in high-contrast scenes, but lateral CA is well-controlled. Easily correctable in post.
  • Bokeh: The 9-blade diaphragm produces pleasing background blur, though not as creamy as newer f/2.8 lenses.

⚙️ Build and Handling

  • Construction: All-metal barrel, integrated tripod collar, and a rear filter slot. It’s built like a tank, weighing around 1.3 kg (46.9 oz).
  • Autofocus: Screw-drive AF is adequate but not fast by modern standards. Works best with bodies like the D3 or D800 that have strong AF motors.
  • Ergonomics: Balanced for tripod or monopod use. Handheld shooting is possible but tiring over long sessions.

🧠 Use Cases

  • Wildlife: Excellent for birds and mammals in good light. Works well with 1.4x teleconverters for added reach.
  • Sports: Fast enough for field sports, especially when pre-focused or used with manual override.
  • Portraits: Great for outdoor headshots with strong subject isolation and flattering compression.
  • Travel and nature: Compact for a 300mm prime, making it a viable option for landscape detail and distant subjects.

⚖️ Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Excellent sharpness and contrast
  • Durable, professional-grade build
  • Affordable on the used market (~$250–$400 USD)
  • Compatible with FX and DX bodies

Cons

  • No VR or AF-S motor
  • Slower autofocus on entry-level bodies
  • Some CA and flare in extreme conditions
  • Heavy for handheld use

📝 Final Verdict

The Nikon AF Nikkor 300mm f/4 ED is a legacy lens that still earns its place in a modern kit. For photographers who don’t mind manual focus override or tripod work, it offers stunning image quality at a fraction of the cost of newer telephotos. It’s a reminder that great glass doesn’t expire—it just asks for a little patience and technique.

Shooting in RAW — A Practical Guide

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Shooting in RAW means saving the sensor’s unprocessed data so you can shape the final image later. RAW files act like a digital negative: they keep maximum detail, tone, and color information that in-camera JPEG processing would otherwise compress or discard.

What RAW actually contains

  • RAW stores linear sensor data with higher bit depth than JPEG, preserving more tonal steps between shadows and highlights. This gives you extra headroom when correcting exposure, recovering highlights, or pulling detail from shadows.

Advantages of shooting RAW

  • Greater dynamic range and recovery — You can recover more detail from highlights and shadows because RAW keeps more tonal information.
  • Flexible white balance — White balance is not baked into the pixel data the way it is for JPEGs, so you can change it non-destructively in post.
  • Superior colour depth and grading — Higher bit depth means smoother gradients and more room for colour grading without banding.
  • Non‑destructive edits — RAW editing writes instructions instead of permanently changing pixels, so you can always revert to the original capture.
  • Better noise handling — RAW processors can apply more sophisticated noise reduction because they have access to the sensor’s full data.
  • More control for critical workflows — Commercial, landscape, and fine-art work benefits from the latitude RAW offers for exacting color and tone control.

Disadvantages of shooting RAW

  • Larger file sizes — RAW files are significantly bigger than JPEGs, which increases storage needs and backup complexity.
  • Slower workflow — RAW requires post-processing, which adds time to editing and delivery compared with straight-out-of-camera JPEGs.
  • Compatibility and portability — RAW formats vary by camera brand and model; some software or older devices may not read every RAW without updates or converters.
  • Longer write times and smaller burst buffers — On some cameras, RAW capture can slow burst rate or fill buffers faster than JPEGs, affecting action shooting.
  • Need for consistent color management — RAW gives flexibility but demands disciplined color pipelines (calibrated monitor, managed profiles) to get reliable outputs.

When to choose RAW vs JPEG

  • Shoot RAW when: you need maximum image quality, plan heavy editing, require reliable highlight/shadow recovery, or are producing work for clients or prints.
  • Shoot JPEG when: you need instant turnaround, extreme file economy (long events with limited cards), or when images are destined only for quick social sharing with minimal editing.

Practical workflow tips

  • Use RAW+JPEG if you sometimes need immediate, shareable files but still want RAW for archives and editing.
  • Cull JPEG previews to speed selection; reserve RAW for final edits.
  • Invest in fast, large-capacity memory cards and a reliable backup routine to handle RAW volumes.
  • Create camera-specific presets or base edits to speed RAW processing while keeping non‑destructive flexibility.
  • Keep your RAW converters updated and standardize on one or two tools (Lightroom, Capture One, or your camera maker’s software) to ensure consistent color and metadata handling.

Short checklist before you shoot

  • Do you need maximum dynamic range and color control? → RAW.
  • Do you need immediate delivery with no editing? → JPEG or RAW+JPEG.
  • Do you have storage and backup planned? → If yes, RAW is safe; if not, plan for it before shooting large volumes.

Shooting RAW is about trading convenience for control. If your work values tonal fidelity, color precision, and future-proof archives, RAW is usually worth the extra planning and processing time.

🚲 Street Life in Phnom Penh: A Living Tapestry

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Walking through Phnom Penh is like stepping into a living mosaic of Cambodia’s culture. The streets are not just roads for transport—they are markets, kitchens, playgrounds, and social spaces all at once.

🌞 Morning Rhythms

  • Markets come alive at dawn: wet markets bustle with vendors selling fresh fish, vegetables, and fragrant herbs.
  • Street-side stalls serve noodle soups, grilled meats, and iced coffee, fueling workers before the day begins.
  • Monks in saffron robes walk barefoot through neighborhoods, collecting alms in a centuries-old ritual.

🚦 Midday Hustle

  • Traffic is a sensory overload: motorbikes weaving between tuk-tuks, bicycles, and the occasional Lexus SUV.
  • Sidewalks double as workshops and storefronts—tailors, mechanics, and barbers set up shop in open air.
  • Children play in alleyways, while families gather under umbrellas to escape the midday heat.

🌆 Evening Energy

  • As the sun sets, Phnom Penh’s streets transform into night markets and food havens.
  • Skewers of beef, fried noodles, and fresh sugarcane juice fill the air with irresistible aromas.
  • Riverside areas like Sisowath Quay become social hubs, with locals strolling, exercising, or enjoying street performances.

🎨 The Character of Phnom Penh’s Streets

  • Contrasts everywhere: gleaming malls stand beside crumbling colonial buildings; luxury cars pass hand-pulled carts.
  • Colours and textures: laundry strung across balconies, neon-lit karaoke bars, and murals reflecting Cambodia’s youthful creativity.
  • Community spirit: despite the chaos, there’s a sense of rhythm—neighbours chatting, vendors calling out, children laughing.

📷 Why It’s Photographically Rich

For photographers, Phnom Penh’s street life offers:

  • Dynamic light and shadow in narrow alleys and open boulevards.
  • Faces full of character, from weathered elders to energetic youth.
  • Stories in motion—every corner reveals a narrative of resilience, adaptation, and joy.

In essence: Street life in Phnom Penh is not just about movement and commerce—it’s about connection, survival, and culture lived in public view. It’s messy, colourful, and endlessly fascinating, making it one of the most compelling urban experiences in Southeast Asia.

📸 A Photographer’s Guide to Street Life in Phnom Penh

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🌅 Best Times of Day

  • Early Morning (5:30–8:00 AM): The city wakes up with monks collecting alms, markets buzzing, and soft golden light.
  • Late Afternoon to Evening (4:30–7:00 PM): Streets cool down, families gather, and riverside areas come alive with food stalls and social activity.
  • Night (after 7:00 PM): Night markets and neon-lit streets offer vibrant colours and contrasts, perfect for low-light experimentation.

🏙️ Key Locations

  • Central Market (Phsar Thmey): Iconic art-deco building with bustling vendors inside and street life spilling outside.
  • Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung): Narrow alleys, food stalls, and a mix of locals and expats.
  • Sisowath Quay (Riverside): Evening strolls, street performers, and Mekong river views.
  • Olympic Market & Stadium: Everyday Cambodian life—vendors, students, and sports enthusiasts.
  • Backstreets of Daun Penh & Toul Kork: Less touristy, more authentic glimpses of daily life.

🎨 Style and Approach

  • Wide-angle storytelling: Capture the energy of markets and traffic chaos.
  • Portraits with consent: Many Cambodians are open to being photographed if approached politely—smiles go a long way.
  • Details and textures: Street food, tuk-tuks, signage, and architecture all add layers to your visual story.
  • Motion blur and panning: Great for showing the constant flow of motorbikes and tuk-tuks.

🤝 Ethical Considerations

  • Respect privacy: Always ask before photographing children or vulnerable individuals.
  • Support locals: Buy a coffee or snack from vendors you photograph—it builds goodwill.
  • Be discreet: Avoid being intrusive; blend in and let moments unfold naturally.
  • Tell the truth: Aim for authenticity, not staged or exaggerated scenes.

🛠️ Practical Tips

  • Gear: A 35mm , 50mm or 85mm prime lens is ideal for intimacy; a small zoom (24–70mm) adds flexibility.
  • Settings: Use aperture priority (f/2.8–f/5.6) for portraits and shutter priority for motion shots.
  • Backup: Carry extra batteries and memory cards—street life is unpredictable and fast-moving.
  • Safety: Keep gear close and minimal; Phnom Penh is generally safe, but petty theft can happen.

Final Thought: Phnom Penh’s streets are a living classroom for photographers—full of light, colour, and human connection. The key is to move slowly, observe deeply, and engage respectfully. The reward is not just strong images, but meaningful encounters.

📸 Robert Capa: The War Photographer Who Hated War

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A Short History of a Photojournalist Who Risked Everything to Show the Truth

Robert Capa’s name is synonymous with frontline photojournalism. He didn’t just photograph war—he lived it, crawled through it, and bore witness to its brutality with a camera in hand. His images are not just records of history; they are emotional testaments to the people caught in its crossfire. He was a legendary war photojournalist whose images captured the raw human cost of conflict.

🧭 Early Life and Identity

Born October 22, 1913, in Budapest, Austria-Hungary, Capa fled political repression as a teenager and moved to Berlin. As Hitler rose to power, he relocated to Paris, where he adopted the pseudonym “Robert Capa” to sound more American and marketable. He partnered with fellow photojournalist Gerda Taro, and together they began documenting the Spanish Civil War.

📰 War Coverage and Iconic Work

Capa covered five major conflicts:

  • Spanish Civil War (1936–1939): His photo The Falling Soldier became one of the most iconic war images ever taken.
  • Second Sino-Japanese War
  • World War II: He landed with American troops on D-Day, capturing blurry, visceral images under fire at Omaha Beach.
  • 1948 Arab–Israeli War
  • First Indochina War: Where he was tragically killed by a landmine in 1954 while on assignment in Vietnam.

His approach was simple: “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” He believed in proximity—not just physical, but emotional.

🖋 Magnum Photos and Legacy

In 1947, Capa co-founded Magnum Photos with Henri Cartier-Bresson, David Seymour, and others. Magnum became a cooperative agency that gave photographers control over their work—a revolutionary idea at the time.

Capa’s legacy includes:

  • A new standard for human-centered war photography
  • A commitment to ethical witnessing
  • A body of work that continues to educate and move viewers worldwide

🧭 Final Thought

Robert Capa didn’t glorify war—he exposed it. His images are grainy, imperfect, and often chaotic, but they pulse with truth. He showed that photography could be more than documentation—it could be resistance, empathy, and remembrance.