Cropping in post-processing acceptable or not?

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Hi everyone! Welcome to my blog where I share my passion for street photography and tips on how to improve your skills. Today I want to talk about a topic that is often debated among street photographers: is cropping in post-processing acceptable or not?

Some people might argue that cropping in post-processing is cheating, that it alters the original composition and vision of the photographer, and that it shows a lack of skill and planning. They might say that a true street photographer should be able to capture the decisive moment with the right framing and perspective, without relying on editing software to fix their mistakes.

Others might disagree and say that cropping in post-processing is a creative tool, that it allows the photographer to enhance their images and express their artistic vision, and that it shows a willingness to experiment and learn. They might say that a true street photographer should be open to new possibilities and techniques, without being constrained by rigid rules and dogmas.

So, who is right and who is wrong? Well, in my opinion, there is no definitive answer to this question. Street photography is a form of art, and art is subjective. What works for one photographer might not work for another. What appeals to one audience might not appeal to another. What matters is that you are happy with your images and that they reflect your personal style and message.

Personally, I don’t have a problem with cropping in post-processing, as long as it doesn’t change the essence and meaning of the image. Sometimes I crop my images to remove distracting elements, to improve the balance and harmony of the composition, or to emphasize the main subject or emotion. Sometimes I don’t crop my images at all, because I like them as they are. It depends on each image and what I want to achieve with it.

I think that cropping in post-processing is acceptable in street photography, as long as it is done with intention and purpose, not with laziness and carelessness. I think that cropping in post-processing is a skill that can be learned and improved, not a shortcut that can be abused and overused. I think that cropping in post-processing is a matter of personal preference and taste, not a matter of right or wrong.

What do you think? Do you crop your images in post-processing or not? Why or why not? Let me know in the comments below. And don’t forget to subscribe to my blog for more street photography content. Thanks for reading and happy shooting!

What camera is best for Street Photography

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If you’re passionate about street photography, you might be wondering which camera is best for capturing candid moments of urban life. Street photography is a challenging and rewarding genre that requires a combination of skill, creativity, and luck. You need a camera that can keep up with your vision, and that won’t draw too much attention to yourself.

In this blog post, I’ll share with you some of the best cameras for street photography in 2023, based on my personal experience and research. Whether you prefer a compact point-and-shoot, a premium compact with a large sensor, or a mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses, there’s something for everyone on this list.

Let’s get started!

Best Compact Zoom Camera for Street Photography: Panasonic Lumix LX100 II

If you want a compact camera that gives you more flexibility in terms of focal length, the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II might be the one for you. It has a 17MP Four Thirds sensor that performs well in various lighting conditions, and a Leica-branded 24-75mm equivalent f/1.7-2.8 zoom lens that covers a wide range of shooting scenarios.

The Panasonic Lumix LX100 II has an electronic viewfinder that’s bright and clear, and a touch screen that can be used for focus and exposure control. It also has manual dials for aperture, shutter speed, and exposure compensation, which make it easy to adjust settings on the fly. The Panasonic Lumix LX100 II also supports 4K video recording and has Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity.

The Panasonic Lumix LX100 II is not very pocketable, though. It’s larger and heavier than most compact cameras on this list. It also doesn’t have image stabilization or weather sealing, which might be deal-breakers for some people. But if you want a compact zoom camera that offers great image quality and versatility, the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II is worth considering.

Best Premium Compact Camera for Street Photography: Fujifilm X100V

The Fujifilm X100V is another popular choice among street photographers, especially those who love the retro look and feel of classic film cameras. The Fujifilm X100V has a 26MP APS-C sensor that produces stunning images with rich colours and tones, thanks to Fujifilm’s renowned film simulations. It also has a fixed 35mm equivalent f/2 lens that’s fast and sharp.

The Fujifilm X100V has a hybrid viewfinder that lets you switch between an optical and an electronic viewfinder, depending on your preference. It also has a tilting touch screen, a built-in ND filter, and weather sealing. The Fujifilm X100V also supports 4K video recording and has a headphone jack for monitoring audio.

The Fujifilm X100V is not cheap, though. It costs more than some mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses. It also has a fixed lens that might limit your creative options. But if you’re looking for a premium compact camera that offers superb image quality and style, the Fujifilm X100V is hard to beat.

Best Compact Camera for Street Photography: RICOH GR III

The RICOH GR III is a cult favourite among street photographers and for good reason. It’s small, discreet, and easy to use, with a minimalist design that won’t attract unwanted attention. It has a 24MP APS-C sensor that delivers excellent image quality and low-light performance and a fixed 28mm equivalent f/2.8 lens that’s sharp and versatile.

The RICOH GR III also has a unique feature called Snap Focus, which lets you pre-set a focus distance and instantly snap a photo without waiting for autofocus. This is perfect for street photography, where you need to be quick and decisive. The RICOH GR III also has in-body image stabilization, a touch screen, and Wi-Fi connectivity.

The RICOH GR III is not without its flaws, though. It doesn’t have a viewfinder or a tilting screen, which some people might miss. It also has a relatively short battery life and slow buffer clearing. But if you can live with these drawbacks, the RICOH GR III is one of the best compact cameras for street photography you can buy.

Fanboys and Fujifilm

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Hello, fellow photography enthusiasts! Today, I want to talk about a phenomenon that has been sweeping the photography world for the last few years: the Fujifilm craze and fanboys.

You know what I’m talking about. Those people who swear by their Fujifilm cameras and lenses, who rave about the colours, the ergonomics, the film simulations, the retro design, and the overall experience of shooting with Fuji. They are everywhere: on social media, on forums, on YouTube, on blogs, and even in real life. They are passionate, loyal, and sometimes a bit defensive. They are the Fuji FanBoys (and girls).

Now, before you accuse me of being a hater or a troll, let me make one thing clear: I have nothing against Fujifilm or its users. In fact, I own a Fujifilm X-T3 myself and a few other Fuji cameras and lenses, and I love them. It’s a great camera that delivers excellent image quality, performance, and usability. It’s fun to use and it inspires me to be creative. I also appreciate Fujifilm’s dedication to innovation and customer service. They are constantly updating their firmware, adding new features and improving existing ones. They also listen to feedback and suggestions from their users and implement them in their products.

So why am I writing this blog post? Well, because I think there is a difference between being a fan and being a fanboy/girl. A fan is someone who likes something and enjoys it. A fanboy/girl is someone who likes something and thinks it’s the best thing ever. A fan is open-minded and respectful of other opinions. A fanboy/girl is closed-minded and dismissive of other perspectives. A fan is willing to admit flaws and limitations. A fanboy is blind to faults and exaggerations.

Don’t get me wrong: there is nothing wrong with being enthusiastic about something you love. But when that enthusiasm turns into obsession, bias, or arrogance, then it becomes a problem. And that’s what I see happening with some of the Fuji FanBoys out there. They are so obsessed with their Fujifilm gear that they can’t see anything else. They are so biased that they ignore or downplay the advantages of other brands or systems. They are so arrogant that they mock or insult anyone who dares to disagree with them or choose something different.

This kind of behaviour is not only annoying but also harmful. It creates unnecessary division and hostility among photographers who should be united by their passion for the art and craft of photography. It also limits one’s own growth and learning as a photographer by shutting out other possibilities and perspectives. And it ultimately undermines one’s credibility and reputation as a photographer by making one look like a fanatic or a shill.

So what can we do about this? Well, first of all, we can be more aware of our own biases and preferences. We can acknowledge that we like Fujifilm for certain reasons, but that doesn’t mean that Fujifilm is perfect or superior to everything else. We can recognize that other brands and systems have their own strengths and weaknesses and that they may suit different needs and tastes better than Fujifilm. We can respect other people’s choices and opinions, even if they differ from ours.

Secondly, we can be more curious and open-minded about other options and opportunities. We can try out different cameras and lenses from different brands and systems, either by renting them, borrowing them from friends, or visiting a store. We can learn from other photographers who use different gear than us, either by reading their reviews, watching their videos, or following their work. We can experiment with different styles and genres of photography that may challenge us or inspire us.

Thirdly, we can be more humble and honest about our own skills and abilities. We can admit that we are not experts or masters of photography just because we use Fujifilm gear. We can acknowledge that we still have a lot to learn and improve as photographers, regardless of what camera or lens we use. We can focus more on our vision and creativity than on our gear and specs.

In conclusion, I want to say that I’m not trying to bash or offend anyone who loves Fujifilm gear. I’m just trying to share my perspective on how we can be better photographers and better people by being more balanced and reasonable in our fandom. I hope you enjoyed reading this blog post and found it useful or interesting. If you agree or disagree with me, feel free to leave a comment below or send me an email. I’d love to hear your thoughts on this topic.

Until next time.

Back button AF

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Using the back button AF is a technique that allows you to focus on your subject without having to press the shutter button halfway. It involves assigning a different button on the back of your camera to activate the autofocus system, instead of using the shutter button. Normally, when you press the shutter button halfway, you activate the autofocus system and lock the focus on your subject. When you press it fully, you take the picture. However, if you move your camera after locking the focus, or if your subject moves, you may lose focus and end up with a blurry image. By using a separate button for focusing, you can avoid this problem and have more control over when and where to focus. This way, you can lock the focus on your subject and recompose the frame without losing focus. Using back button AF can be useful for situations where you want to have more control over the focus point, or when you are shooting moving subjects and want to track them continuously. Some of the benefits of using back button AF are:

  • You can avoid accidental refocusing when you press the shutter button fully.
  • You can switch between single and continuous autofocus modes without changing the settings on your camera.
  • You can prevent focus hunting when shooting in low light or low contrast scenes.
  • You can use manual focus and autofocus interchangeably without switching modes.

To use the back button AF, you need to assign a button on the back of your camera to activate the autofocus system. The exact procedure may vary depending on your camera model, but generally, you can find it in the custom functions menu. Once you have assigned the button, you need to disable the autofocus function from the shutter button. This way, the shutter button will only be used to take the picture, and the back button will be used to focus. To use the back button AF, you simply press and hold the back button to focus on your subject, and then release it when you have achieved focus. You can then recompose the frame and press the shutter button to take the picture.

Why do some photographers get noticed and others don’t.

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Why do some photographers get noticed and others don’t. What is the trick?

This is a question that many aspiring photographers ask themselves, and there is no easy answer. Photography is a creative field, and different people have different tastes and preferences. What appeals to one person may not appeal to another. However, there are some general tips that can help you improve your chances of getting noticed as a photographer.

  • Find your niche. Don’t try to copy what others are doing, but instead focus on what makes you unique and passionate. What kind of photography do you enjoy the most? What kind of stories do you want to tell with your images? What kind of style and mood do you want to create? By finding your niche, you can develop your own voice and vision as a photographer, and attract people who share your interests and values.
  • Be consistent. Once you find your niche, stick to it and be consistent in your work. This doesn’t mean you can’t experiment or try new things, but it does mean you should have a clear direction and purpose for your photography. Consistency helps you build your brand and reputation and also helps you grow as a photographer. People will recognize your work and trust your quality.
  • Be visible. If you want to get noticed, you need to put yourself out there and show your work to the world. There are many platforms and channels where you can showcase your photography, such as social media, websites, blogs, magazines, galleries, contests, etc. Choose the ones that suit your goals and audience, and be active and engaging. Share your work regularly, but also interact with other photographers and potential clients. Give feedback, ask for feedback, join communities, network, collaborate, etc. The more visible you are, the more opportunities you will have.
  • Be persistent. Getting noticed as a photographer is not easy, and it takes time and effort. You will face challenges, rejections, criticisms, and competition along the way. Don’t let that discourage you or stop you from pursuing your passion. Keep learning, improving, creating, and sharing your work. Keep trying new things and reaching out to new people. Keep believing in yourself and your vision. Eventually, you will find your audience and your success.

Is being able to shoot manually a real requirement

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Do I have to learn to shoot manually before I can consider myself a photographer? That’s like asking if I have to learn how to drive a stick before I can consider myself a driver. Sure, it might make you feel more in control and impress some people, but it’s not a requirement. There are plenty of amazing photographers who use auto mode and still capture stunning images. Manual mode is just a tool, not a badge of honour. It can help you in some situations, but it can also hinder you in others. The most important thing is to know your camera, your subject, and your vision. And to have fun, of course. Photography is supposed to be fun, not stressful. So don’t worry about what other people think or what mode you use. Just go out there and shoot!

One of the best ways to capture stunning portraits is to use the aperture priority mode on your camera. This mode allows you to adjust the depth of field, which is how much of the scene is in focus. By using a large aperture (a small f-number), you can create a shallow depth of field that blurs the background and makes the person stand out. This way, you can emphasize their facial features, expressions, and emotions. Aperture priority mode is great for people’s pictures because it lets you focus on the person without worrying about other settings. You can simply point and shoot, and let the camera do the rest. Aperture priority mode gives you more creative control and flexibility than auto mode and helps you achieve professional-looking results with ease. Whatever mode you use its is just a tool to help you get the picture you see.

The Fujifilm X100

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Back in September 2010, Fujifilm unveiled the prototype of its new flagship compact camera. The styling was reminiscent of an old rangefinder, while internally it was said to feature an APS-C-size sensor. This combination of classic looks and potential for DSLR-quality images was a surefire winner, and without knowing much more photo enthusiasts the world over needed one. Natural comparisons can be made between the Fuji FinePix X100 and the Leica X1, and even the M9, although it is also worth noting its features and performance against the recent spate of compact system cameras (CSCs), particularly the APS-C-format models from Samsung and Sony.

Aside from its looks, the Fuji FinePix X100 had plenty to please the photo enthusiast, from the Fujifilm-branded film effects to the hybrid viewfinder with the impressive-sounding, reverse-Galilean optical viewfinder, capable of either a full electronic or a standard optical view.

There is also the new combination of high-sensitivity CMOS sensor and EXR processor to consider that, with the fixed-focal-length lens, should be able to produce impressive results in terms of resolution, sensitivity and dynamic range.

The X100 is a popular camera model that offers high-quality images and a sleek design. However, some users have reported slow focusing problems with their X100 cameras, especially in low-light situations. This can be frustrating and affect the performance of the camera.

The main cause of the slow focusing problems is the contrast-detection autofocus system that the X100 uses. Contrast-detection autofocus works by measuring the contrast of the image on the sensor and adjusting the focus until the contrast is maximized. This method is accurate but slow, especially when there is not enough contrast in the scene. Contrast-detection autofocus also struggles with moving subjects, as it has to constantly refocus to keep up with the motion.

There are a few ways to fix the slow-focusing problems on the X100. One option is to use manual focus instead of autofocus. Manual focus allows you to adjust the focus manually using the focus ring on the lens or the focus lever on the back of the camera. Manual focus gives you more control and precision over the focus, but it also requires more skill and practice. You can use the focus peaking feature or the magnification feature to help you achieve sharp focus.

Another option is to use zone focusing instead of autofocus. Zone focusing is a technique where you pre-set the focus distance and aperture to cover a certain range of distances in front of the camera. For example, if you set the focus distance to 3 meters and the aperture to f/8, everything between 2 and 5 meters will be in focus. Zone focusing works well for street photography or situations where you don’t have time to adjust the focus for each shot. You can use the distance scale on the lens or on the screen to help you set the zone.

A third option is to update the firmware of your X100 camera. Firmware is the software that controls how your camera operates. Sometimes, firmware updates can improve the performance and functionality of your camera, including the autofocus speed and accuracy. You can check if there is a firmware update available for your X100 camera by visiting the official website of Fujifilm and following the instructions there.

The X100 is a great camera that can produce stunning images, but it also has some limitations that can affect its usability. By understanding what causes the slow focusing problems and how to fix them, you can enjoy your X100 camera more and take better photos.

If you’re looking for a camera that can fit in your pocket, take stunning photos, and make you look like a hipster, you might be tempted by the Fuji X100. This little gem has been around for a decade, and it still holds up as a great choice for enthusiasts and professionals alike. But don’t be fooled by its retro charm and simplicity. The X100 is not a camera for beginners. It has a fixed lens, a quirky autofocus system, and a steep learning curve. You’ll need to master the basics of exposure, composition, and manual controls before you can unleash its full potential. And even then, you might find yourself frustrated by its limitations and quirks. The X100 is not a camera that will hold your hand and do everything for you. It’s a camera that will challenge you, inspire you, and reward you with amazing images. But only if you’re willing to put in the work and embrace its flaws. So if you’re looking for a fun and easy way to snap some pictures, the X100 is not for you. But if you’re looking for a camera that will make you a better photographer, and make you laugh along the way, the X100 might be your perfect companion.

Nikon D3 still a great camera in 2023

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The Nikon D3 was a game-changer – the first full-frame Nikon DSLR. Nikon dubbed its new sensor ‘FX-format’, a name that would continue into its mirrorless Z cameras. Designed for professionals, the D3 used the new EXPEED processor to deliver 9fps continuous shooting. The D3 also introduced live view mode, allowing photographers to see what the camera was seeing in real-time via the rear LCD screen.

The D3 was a workhorse camera, with a focus on speed – even at the time, the 12MP resolution was considered a bit low, but it helped the processor keep up with the action. The D3’s magnesium-alloy body is rated for an impressive 300,000 shutter actuations, so you can be more forgiving when assessing whether a used body is offering good value for money.

The Nikon D3 is a legendary camera that still holds up well in 2023. It has a full-frame sensor, a fast autofocus system, and a rugged body that can withstand harsh conditions. The Nikon D3 can capture stunning images with great dynamic range, colour accuracy, and low noise. It is also compatible with a wide range of lenses, from ultra-wide to telephoto. The Nikon D3 is a great choice for anyone who loves photography and wants to experience the joy of using a classic camera. Even in 2023, the Nikon D3 is a usable camera that can deliver amazing results.

If you’re wondering whether the Nikon D3 12 MP is too small to make good images, you might want to reconsider your priorities. The Nikon D3 is a 12MP beast that can capture stunning photos in any lighting condition, with its fast autofocus, high ISO performance, and rugged body. It’s not the size of the sensor that matters, it’s how you use it. And the Nikon D3 knows how to use it well. So don’t let the megapixel myth fool you into thinking that bigger is always better. The Nikon D3 is more than enough for most photographers, and it will make you laugh with joy when you see the results. Trust me, you won’t regret buying this camera. Unless you have tiny hands, then you might need a grip.

You can find examples with considerably fewer actuations for around 450 USD. Honestly, the Nikon D3 is an amazing camera to pick up for less than four hundred pounds, even though it may be old it is still a dream to use.

I just picked one up with less than 140,000 shutter count, for less than 340$ US from Japan

Fujifilm JPEGS are not just ordinary JPEGS, they are works of art!

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Fujifilm JPEGS are amazing! They have a unique look and feel that many photographers love. They are rich in colours, contrast and detail, and they capture the mood and atmosphere of the scene very well. For example, you can use the Classic Chrome film simulation to create a vintage and cinematic look, or the Velvia film simulation to enhance the vibrancy and saturation of your landscapes. Fujifilm JPEGS are so good because they use proprietary film simulations that emulate the characteristics of different types of film. These film simulations are based on decades of experience and research by Fujifilm, and they give the JPEGS a distinctive and artistic touch. Fujifilm JPEGS are also very versatile and customizable. You can adjust various settings such as sharpness, noise reduction, highlight tone, shadow tone, colour and white balance to fine-tune your JPEGS to your liking. You can also apply different film simulations to the same image to create different effects. For instance, you can switch from Provia to Acros to turn your colour image into a stunning black and white one, or from Astia to Eterna to change the mood from soft and gentle to dramatic and intense. Fujifilm JPEGS are a great option for those who want to save time and storage space, or who prefer to get their images right in the camera without much post-processing. They are also fun and inspiring to use, as they encourage you to experiment with different styles and moods. Fujifilm JPEGS are not just ordinary JPEGS, they are works of art!

I love the Fujifilm Provia film simulation so much! It gives me such vibrant and realistic colours in my photos. It’s my go-to choice for most situations. The only other film simulation that comes close is chrome, which has a nice contrast and saturation. But Provia is still my favourite by far!

The Fuji 27mm f2.8 (first version)

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If you are looking for a versatile and compact lens to pair with your X Pro3, you can’t go wrong with the Fujifilm 27mm f2.8. This lens is a gem for general and street photography, as it offers a fast aperture, sharp image quality, and a lightweight design. The 27mm focal length is equivalent to 41mm on a full-frame sensor, which is close to the classic 35mm field of view many photographers love. It allows you to capture many scenes, from landscapes to portraits, without distortion or cropping. The f2.8 aperture lets you shoot in low-light conditions and create beautiful bokeh effects. The lens also has a quick and silent autofocus system that works well with the X Pro3’s hybrid viewfinder. The best part is that the lens is so tiny and light that you can easily carry it around in your pocket or bag. It barely adds any bulk to the X Pro3’s sleek and retro body. The Fujifilm 27mm f2.8 is a great lens for anyone who wants to enjoy the simplicity and creativity of photography with the X Pro3.

I have owned it for quite a while but never really used the Fujifilm 27mm f2.8 lens until recently, and I have to say I’m blown away by its performance! It’s so compact and lightweight, yet it delivers sharp and crisp images with beautiful colours and contrast. It’s perfect for street photography, landscapes, and portraits. It has a fast autofocus and a smooth aperture ring that lets me control the depth of field easily. I love how it makes my camera look sleek and discreet, and how it fits in my pocket when I’m on the go. This lens is a gem and I’m so glad I finally gave it a chance!